Riding out of Popayan it was time to face my biggest fear: the fear of missing out (FOMO). I was going to the Purace volcano despite the low possibility of seeing it.
A truck got stuck on the way up, a rather funny sight as he looked it and then drove off with the dirt, plants and half riped canvas as if nothing happened.
Further up looks like the Colombian DOT was doing its job!
Most people still cook with wood here, propne gas and stoves are too expensive.
For about $20 we negociated a night at the hostel and a reauired guide to the top. Normally I would be against that but the whole operation was ran by natives so it felt right.
On the way up was a sketchy sulfur mine, bright green stuff all over the walls and somebody on the bottom shoveling that stuff. I did not manage to see what sort of protection he had as I was holding onto the rope as best as I could.
My guide with a motoand me in tow we made ourway up. Ihad to pedal on the bad parts otherwise the moto spins out but took breaks by biking, riding with one hand and rope in other is not so easy.
It pretty much rained the whole time with ferocious winds.
"Its really bad," my guide said,
"Ready? Lets go to the top," my plan to bring the bike to the crater was not going to work as you could barely stand against the wind.
Although the gopro footagegot lost, this is the only photo i have at the top. We hid behind a rock for 20minutes waiting for the sun.
On the way back down, I was glad to see the Colombian DOT wasnt overworking today either :)
I spent more time back in Popayan to do some video editing, rest up and fatten up for the trans ecuador mountain bike route. I'd often go and grab a burger at Pocho's one of the cyclists and then end up having a double dinner. Through a friend I was invited to stay at the Pairish church mission house from Switzerland. Although Felipe (the cycling violinist) had to go off to Cartagena, I enjoyed staying with father Alfred who has traveled very much the same roads I am hoping to do but back in the day and on his horse.
To make things more exciting, I am currently without any navigation but a hand drawn map and a list of towns that should be on the way. Out of Popayan a dusty logging road led to cooler and higher places. I am actually taking this easy and sticking to driveable roads since I am lugging the laptop with me until Ecuador.
A random yellow arrow and a trail popped up which led to a hostel.
There was even a quiet nature walk amongst the flowers... and the cows.
And a kid. Once I made the mistake of kicking the ball back there was no escape. We also played chicken bowling which is like regular bowling but with lighter ball and moving targets. Note to self: chickens can fly short distances when enough motivation is present.
In Paispamba I almost found internet but I think there were problems with the dail up modem. When not sure where to go, I would stop at an intersection...
And wait for somebody to show up to ask them which way to go.
While all the trucks were putting on their ponchos,
I just took a break from the rain. "Dont be a hero gear," rain edition.
Road was always quiet with the occassional jeep or chiva rolling through and plenty of houses all over the green hillsides.
Up the narrow valley camping would have been tough so I asked if I may camp at the last house, finally having to repair that pole that broke when my tent flew away into the sunset few weeks ago.
I try as best as I can but it is impossible to capture the warm colombian hospitality and all the amazing energy amongst in all the people here. In the morning I had fathorse ready to go and the senor had his as well.
When Luisa saw me moxing mango flavored powder in my water she offered me real mango juice and a mango!!
It was a hot climb up to Rio Blanco but just in time for the market and some delicious empanadas and strawberries.
animals were taking it super easy, there is no need to rush anywhere they aint got no visa expiring soon on their minds
It looked like it would rain and frankly with the state of the tent, finding a place to stay was a better idea. Some little town had 3 hostelsbut nobody in them. I suspected it would all be full as there was a reunion today so I kept going. Two weeks of soft bed and roof over my head have made me feeble and weak!
In Varbillas I found the perfect place, the $3 colonial hotel. I got to make friends with all the dogs:
Dinner was tune, rice and tomato sitting next to the road and watching the evening in the little village.
I too was being watched. All dogs got a small portion of the food and i went to sleep a little hungry...
And the best part, there was hot water!
In the morning I pulled my hand drawn map at a school to ask for directions and completely forgot how dangerous schools are! That moment when the teacher says "lets go outside" and you hear the kids go "yeey"
There was photo time with dogs and a movie time in Morocco! Kids were very happy to see snow.
After an english lesson I let one kid go on the bike.
Then it was everybody elses turn but we called it after 5 of the 7 kids because one almost fell, haha.
Further up a surprisingly unremarkable paramo was an army checkpoint. The high mountain batallion #4 aka "paramo dogs"
The village of Valencia seemed to have internet and just for a moment, surprisingly flat roads.
Past another little town i followed a small path leading past a cell tower.
Next day was pretty much up and down the whole time and topped off with a climb toward the final hill before Nariño.
A man washing his moto by the road invited me to his house. With literally no sleep due to wind last night four walls sounded like a good idea.
ok, maybe not with the Cuys...
ready for the last little bit of colombia! Narino