Tziscao, Chiapas, Mexico. Jan 18, 2016

The weather didnt look too promising but since when does that matter? Circling the lake to find more resorts and empty food stalls and finally the border. No immigration, no checks. The plan is to cross into Guatemala, then back into Mexico and over again via an official port of entry. In order to avoid problems further down in central america.

Maria and Daniel join me for the push up the first hill. By now I am a pro at walking my bike, I slow down a little so they can keep up. They have a 40 minute walk to town where they work.

More dirt, hills and fog.

Unfortunately I need to go to the bank back in Comitan to pay the fee. 1.5 hr bus ride and 1 hour wait in line at the bank. Next day I am back. Few stamps and smiles and I am in Guatemala.

Dogs scavenging for food at the dump, which is where they basically push the burning grabage down a hill.

Then things got interesting: dirt and rain.

It was a bad time to get a flat. The tube was leaking at the valve stem so I'd have to dig to the bottom of the bag for the spare. I was looking for a tree to hide under but found a house instead.

I put on rain gear and continued. It was actually cold enough so I didnt sweat too much.

Goretex or not, after a while I felt just like that dog.

It was really interesting to see how much those big trucks sway as they negotiate potholes and rocks.

When the clouds cleared and the rain stopped I saw two kids trying to get one donkey back to town. It kept running off to eat grass.
"Burro no esculche?" I say.
"Burro loco," the kid answers and tries to mount him again, unsuccessfully.

I follow them back to town full of rad trucks and buses. I need to figure out how these Mercedes badges are awarded, maybe I can earn one myself?

The clouds had cleared up in the morning but there were lots of fires burning around. So i leave this town. My map says one name, Google said another, the locals called it something else. I forgot them all.

Some truckers pull over and offer me a ride, water and a coconut. I take the coconut,

And they give me one more to go.

Surprising to see little houses all over these hills.

I promise to think about the people hauling logs next time i think about complaining about the road grade or heavy backpack.

Big parade in the small town, there must be people from the other small villages. Everybody is shocked to see me. Some gather near and point to the bike, explaining all the different parts, others laugh and dogs stare me down expecting leftovers.

A drunk man who asked me for money earlier follows me out of town but decides to go to sleep instead. Ha. Buenas Noche

San Mateo. I lean my bike and head to the bank. A man with a shotgun looks through the window. I knock and he opens the door.
"Is there ATM here?"
"No"
I turn around at the sound of my bike falling. My Nalgene bottle splits open. Bummer. I thought they were indestructable, the whole plaza stares at me as I try to rescue whatever water remains.

Luckily the road was not paved. I ride and push my bike as clouds come in again.

At 3100m they clear and I decide to camp. Jan 20, I turn 28 today, no cake but a nice quiet night.

Waded my way in granny gear along lively hillsides and look into the distance with the rising sun - I will end up somewhere over there tonight.

So the sleeping mat kind of exploded last night when I tried to blow it up. The good news is that I will be carrying one pound less... the bad news is that I will be sleeping on the ground until El Salvador.

The main road is all paved from here for sure - I saw a Corolla, so I turn right instead.

Steep down, steep up. Look at all that wear I am saving on my chain by walking... can't say the same about the brakepads.

The world needs more cool buses like this one.

Can hardly take a break in town nowdays. My photo album keeps my new friends busy while I gulp french fries with ketchup and grab some food.

It's been up and down all day, I continue up again from 2200m.

For the entire day, I hadnt seen a single decent camp site. Going up did not look too promising.

I headed off on a fairly flat spur road, humming "take me home, country roads"

and they did take me home, to a rad spot overlooking that town I left at 3pm.

Finished the ride to 3400m in the morning, the temperature was just perfect and the grades more reasonable.

There is a steep 1400m descent to Hueue, not many guard rails - its for the best anyway. If i go off the road I would have an uninterrupted flight.

Coffee and cake for my birthday... mmm...

And back to the country side.

I set up camp rather early since without a pad, finding soft ground is very important. Looks like aliens spotted me and decided to abduct my tent.

Dinner, sunset, its nice to remember that I am not really in a rush.

It was pretty hilly the next day.

One last big hill between me and San Christobal. I have taken it upon myself to teach dogs who chase after cyclists. I would turn around and go after them. The look of surprise on their faces is priceless! I chased one into a field on foot after I couldnt bike in it, that dog... oh man, he will not chase another cyclist ever again.

Plus, why chase cyclists when you can nap?

I met up with warmshowers host Carl, who is 62 and rides or hikes everyday.

He invited me to stay for a couple of days at his roundhouse.

On the first day I went to get Four Bucks coffee, pretty good.

On the second day I made it to Carl's volcano. He takes care of it by picking up garbage every week.

The plan for day 3 was Santa Anna.

So I got to use shampoo yesterday, the two guatemalan girls that came with us said I looked like a mexican soap opera actor.

We made it just in time. Carl also runs a scholarship program to help local native girls go to university. With how tough life is here, very few may get a chance to do that.