After a short break following the Ausangate trek I was good to go again, following the Tres Cordilleras Bikepacking Route toward Bolivia. On the short road section before my turnoff I met a Colombian cyclists who had ridden down in just 4 months.
It was the 3rd time I go in this valley but the atmosphere is pretty cool. The gentle grade makes the 3300-4300m climb unnoticable and the roaring river reminds you that the rain season is far from over.
the gently inclined valley bottom road means that many of the locals bike to and from the field
Packmules, dressed up llamas and tourist buffet restaurants remind me of the Mountain of the 7 Colors but for some reason it didn't ring a bell or light up the "i want to go" light. After some time on the road I have come to realize that I am not here to see something specific, I am just here and passing by. I may be missing some big things like Machu Pichhu but in my own stubborn way I refuse to do big touristy stuff. The empty roads and alpine shepherds seem like a better destination.
past the Rainbow Mountain turnoff, the life resumes to normal
which is pretty much alpackas roaming everywhere
and the motos reaching where few 4x4's can
I get a short peak at the massive Ausangate hidden behind the clouds, I would have half a mind to go and run the circuit again but maybe the take 2 would be best left for summertime.
it was all ducks, trucks and cats to yet another 5000m pass
to a land full of bridges and alpackas and where the views open up to show the other giants of the Vilcamba Range
All I knew was that I wanted to camp by the lake, it didnt matter how windy or wet it will be but a good compromise was an old stone enclosure on a small hill which with some work provided quite decent wind protection and good view. Being an early camp i had time to run around a bit and cross my fingers for a sunset.
Few motos broke up the morning silence on the road, seemingly heading off into the white abyss. I couldnt help but wonder if that field may be crossed at some point, given the proper equipment and knowledge.
The rare sunny morning drew all the locals to town and many made their way with motos, horses or on foot
and did I mention that I LOVE BRIDGES???
and lets just say that there is a whole lot of water around here during the wet season...
and somebody is always keeping an eye on you
shepherds often have few llamas with their alpackas, they are very protective and this one is as old and as wise as they get!
Dogs on the other hand have found a way to survive, they would follow a shepherd or a family and get by on whatever little food scraps they can get. Its a tough world but they are making it!
and now the sunny break was over and back to more rain
a reasonably clean stables provided much needed shelter down at about 4100m and I even had neighbours across the river
on the advice of a local who promised road and bridges, I headed off toward the rock forest, the topo map seemed promising that the road would connect. Maybe it will but either way it is worth it.
then the sun came out and it was a no brainer to set up camp and try to dry out some stuff.
it was an easy ride to Macusani at 4300m with its sub-par miner food (by peruvian standards) and acceptable accommodation at its most expensive hotel ($12 with electric heater!!!).
thats it for now, more to follow. it has been hard keeping up as making a post over at squarespace is extremely slow and unreliable. Maybe I will try to transfer again to wordpress and set aside few days to do it.
meanwhile if you aren't on Patreon, here is an early link to the 26th episode!!! (STW26) enjoy
