One can never get quite used to the Argentinian way of life. Nothing in terms of restaurant or bakeries was open in this little tourist town (El Manzano) at noon. So I spent my last pesos on some extra food and that brings the total to a little bit more than I’d like to carry.
Its actually good to see much less garbage on the roads as opposed to the rest of latin america. But just as many loose animals as in latin america!
As I rolled into the cloudy valley the morning clouds began to burn away in the hot sun and more of the rocks came out. It was really amazing and i kept stopping looking up and around. It’s a really cool place! Some proper mountains and not the sandy and not-steep mountains of the Puna.
then enter one of the raddest border crossings I have ever encountered. Argentinians just love building customs and stationing people in the randomest, coolest places ever!
and by default, their border guards are cool too! compare that to rehersing answers to some common questions and borrowing money from friends so that you can print a bank account statement with good amount of money, return flights, etc. for USA. They both rode my bike but the second officer fell over, and yeah i got it on video!!!
oh and the day just gets better and better!
I arrived at a refugio, clean enough to set up camp and it offered great protection from the beasts that roam nearby
They destroyed an entire box of cardboard and garbage…
I shared the refugio with two girls who had come up to do a hike around the area from way down south.
they told me there was a bus like the one from “into the wild” further up!
“kind of…”! Imagine just casually driving up the road and the bus catches on fire???
I rode up past few more weekend warriors, its really nice to see how friendly people are here. To be honest I am still recovering from the not-so-great vibes in Peru and more-so in Bolivia.
Moving up, I couldnt figure out exactly what I was seeing, so I busted out the zoom on the camera and it was a horde of horses coming down from the pass
I got to about 4100m and it was about 1pm but after few days of afternoon siestas in Mendoza I kind of wanted to go for a nap, so I set up my tent and went for a siesta. Woke up around 4pm to another horde of horses walking by and all the mules (and arieros) looking at me funny.
Then I figured since its too late to continue, i might as well camp here. A group of hikers came down, singing. Pretty happy people but there was a bit of an awkward silence after they asked me how I am going to cross the river. Really nice group of people to be the last people to see for the day.
Too used to the dry and clear weather of the Puna, I couldnt believe it wasnt clear in the morning. As the rain continuned well past 8am, I decided that I should pack up and go anyway. It was not strong rain but foggy, humid and windy, very cold!
Nearing the top the road finally ended and I was on the horse horde highway, steep and slippery. All the while getting blasted by the wind and soaking wet.
feet were wet but ok.
hands were freezing cold and I would stop every few minutes and stick my hands near my tighs (under my pants and rainpants) to warm them up, trading precious core body temperature for just warming up my hands so that I can feel them.
cresting the pass, oh boy - all my time in the closer to the equator mountains in Peru and Bolivia have made me forget how cold and serious things can get here. This was only 4500m but not quite easy.
I left the bike and paced back and forth around the pass, it was all quite windy. One little spot offered a little protection so I sat down on the wet snow and made a coffee and some bread with meat and cheese. Munched on some cookies during a second coffee but it was clear that I can’t wait for better weather here. I was shaking and not getting warmer, while the snow and wind continued.
I packed up, put on my backpack, its time for some downhill…
It was really a mix of barely being able to walk my bike down, taking safety into concern and really regretting ditching my helmet at a pass in the paramo in colombia, this would be a good place to have a helmet. It was also truly amazing the stuff you can just roll over with a fatbike if you can keep your balance and have a downhill grade. The camera did not come out at all and as I dropped below the snow I almost caught some sun and my fingers warmed up
the clouds lifted a little and I can see a bit of the amazing landscapes that lay beyond
I sat for a little bit looking at the river. Zooming in and scanning up and down for a major split (aka 2 or 3 channels) it all looked really bad.
I rolled up to the military refugio, where the immigration told me there would be people and I might be able to stay.
I was given the OK by the commanding officers. There was a horse tour group here and I set up in a big room with the other people while the arieros had their private rooms and the military were on the second floor when they werent playing cards in the lunch room. There was running water, electricity, stoves, washrooms and HOT SHOWER! so good to be indoors and not out with the wet dogs and the wet horses…
then another horde of wet horses and wet people showed up. It was another group. Always room for more! The arieros (horse handlers) were rock solid and got around to unloading and arranging their horses and still had to run them to somewhere where they can eat for the night. But the people were quite shaken, wet and cold.
i was nicely approached and told that I cant take photos inside the shelter for security reasons. I guess in case anybody is planning attack on a remote mountain shelter. It wasnt that interesting inside anyway aside from the photos on the wall of people doing this pass with fridges. I thought it was hard on a bike… try a fridge!!!
I ate a huge portion of pasta and whatever I can trow in my pot. Once dry the people started cooking up the famous argentinian asados and singing. I somehow fell asleep during that and missed on my invitation for a second dinner. Woke up around 11pm and listened to some more songs being sang. Really cool argentinian mountain vibes here!!
I woke up to the following conversation, well something in the lines of:
”…but can you help him get aross?”
”yeah if he leaves early before 8”
one of the guys I spoke with yesterday was talking to his Ariero. They were up at 6 getting ready to pack up their horses and everything. I too got up and wanted to give the river a go early in the morning. Talking to another guy they were running the horses to the border to pick up more people but later at like 9am. Before I left at 7, one of the argentinians kind of gave me the talk about the river but I just said I’ll have a look and if its bad I can wait for the group leaving at 9.
not that I had to but I wanted to try it on my own and to be honest, Argentina is an expensive country and I did not want to give an insulting tip to the horse handlers for helping me.
So, you will have to see the video for this, but the river is crossable. I packed everything up in waterproof(-ish) bags and left the bike on the shore, tied with a rope.
I was at the easiest spot (after 10minutes of scouting) to cross.
I went downstream and began crossing slowly across and upstream while holding onto the rope. If I pull too much the bike would fall into the river but the little extra support was nice
water level was above the knee, halfway to the waist but with the current I was soaked to my belly button.
Once on the other side I walked upstream of the bike and pulled it into the river, the current pushing it down and across to my side (like a pendulum swing)
although I could not hold it and had to walk down a little.
who needs horses anyway!
There was a certain sense of urgency to get moving, I wasnt in the river that long but I was getting very cold. The weather did not look too promising and I was also warned by the people that it will rain today. I got the sand and rocks out of my shoes and kept on walking
Finally the horde of horses caught up to me as the sun came out and I stopped to have a breakfast well earned. It was like 11am.
I sit back to admire the rocks while sipping on coffee and good sandwitch
I slowly wander up, wondering about the day’s plan. I have too much food and it would be a bummer to drag it up and down the mountain, Yet too early to stop. aside from the river today it was super easy going up in the valley and the uphill to the only 4000m pass did not look too bad
Then coming out of this little valley it hits me. No, not the horse
the mountain, woah!
So I set up early camp beside this giant and had the time to finish up the narration/script for the video episodes 29 and 30.
recorded a patreon video (still to be made)
and a story so far video, also in the works (something short like 4-5minutes for my channel)
while looking through my door and thinking that I could have never passed up such an amazing spot.
so glad to be back in the mountains, with water and snow and all!
meanwhile the dinner is rather tough as I havent shaved since Bolivia (like 3months) and its really getting in the way of quality of life and especially eating!
I make my way up in the morning happy that the rear maxxis tire held up as long as it did. The riding in the dry Puna at low pressure (due to roads and sand) really left a mark on it
The good thing about walking your bike is that you can see the little things, flowers and birds and the funny fat rabbits running across the hills from you
this side of the mountain was really the place to be! No wind, sun and good trail
I hung around at the pass and the confluence of the greater patagonian west winds. The border between Argentina and Chile. Reading the messages in a bottle, well in a jar, that people left and making sure none get blown away by the wind.
the downhill was incredibly steep but perfectly rideable, the strong headwind definitely helped
few more obstacles remained between me and the hotsprings i knew awaited on the bottom of the valley
first there were these furry sun creatures
and then of course, chocolate milk
I made it across, set up tent, ate a little and fell asleep. I woke up at 2am and ate a little more, so nice not to have bears and have food in your tent. Woke up the next day to this
The hot springs were actually warm springs but nontheless I couldnt just jump in so I took an ice cold shower, if you thought getting brainfreeze when you drink something cold is bad, try showering in ice water. By the time I dried out it was so warm that I didnt want to go into more warm water. These very nice people were here for few days rest
I went on down through the donkeys and horses
as I descended down the valley the mountains grew taller
it was a weekday but I was amused at the traffic around this big lake.
and Chileans certainly got their road signs right
I went to the police station at the first town where I heard the chile entry point was but he told me its not here anymore and I need to go to Santiago to get my stamp in. It was nice to be on a road and find fruit and veggies
I rolled up to a camping place and started unpacking my bike, I went to ask how much it costs. and good thing that I wasn’t holding a drink because I would have spilled it!!!
”Hi, how much is the camping here?”
”$40”
"pause.
”for a week?”
”laughs, no. for a day but it has a pool and a walk….”
I smile and walk out.
I stopped at a fancy looking place for food and decided it would be a treat and it was nice to sit down somewhere out of the sun and with good wifi. Their burger ran at $16 with an included tip $2 and frankly it was quite mediocre.
and the award for most mediocre $18CAD burger goes to this one at Santuario Del Rio, gotta yelp that!!!
after an extensive search I found $6 camping with benches, power and water. There were also fences everywhere along the way which would have made free camping a bit of hassle. This place was nice and definitely worth it. Plus can’t complain about $6 when I am about to spend a week or two in Santiago editing videos, haha
I spent a nice evening munching on fruit and in the company of friendly dog and grumpy old dog
it was a nice ride down to civilization and I was getting passed like a road sign my men in lycra.
I joined Vincent for a ride back into town and I truly admired his patience as he went with my speed and we made our way into the smog
It was great following somebody who knew what he was doing on the road, as it has been a while since I’ve been on city roads
We parted ways mid-city and I just rode the rest mostly on the sidewalks, with the disappointing experience that chilean restaurants have been both price and quality-wise (and this still stands as of writing this, after 10 days in Santiago), I opted for the comfort and economy of the Golden Arches
I made it to the immigration office and waited for about an hour for my turn. Luckily bike was in sight from where I was. i do not carry a lock. The dude was so surprised when I told him I need a stamp and where I came from, another 30minutes took me right past the official office hours with about 7 employees talking and waving my passport, they were definitely talking too quick, one guy tells me its ok though.
eventually somebody runs up with a little box and they take out a stamp maker, stamp my passport and tell me that for the future, I need to email them and let them know with the exact time of crossing so that they can meet me somewhere (likely not at the pass though…)
the faded stamp reads Paso Portillo-Piuquenes and backdated to about 6 days ago when I left Argentina, ah. that’s what time travel must be like!!!
