Dec 28, 2015. Mexico State, Mexico
Riding toward Toluca on the toll road
For the first time I get pulled over by highway employees and they tell me it is not safe to ride on the highway. I smile, knowing that the only alternative is windy and shoulderless with a lot more traffic but don´t try to fight it when they point to my bike and the back of their truck.
About an hour later I am rolling into Toluca, pretty empty on a sunday but the city does have some nice bike lanes and even red lights with a bike sign on them (that i am sure nobody follows).
Meanwhile I have been trying to find a place to stay in Toluca, got a reply from a warmshowers host but ended up showing to the wrong address.
''well, welcome anyway!''
Memo and Janelle invited me in. The evening involved a 5 player game of Catan.
While my bike is being guarded well
The climb to the volcano started with about 1000m elevation gain on the pavement
then the last bit over a very well graded dirt road.
At the top I met two americans on motorcycles. I have always thought of how fun that would be but it would also bring some limitations.
For example, can't hop a fence with a motorcycle and then push it up a steep trail!
I met another motorist in the crater. This was his evening ride. We chatted in english and spanish as the sun faded, it would be very cold at 4000m.
Later two young lads from Mexico City stopped by. They asked me if I lived here, I took it as a compliment. I told them if they get to the parking lot and there is nobody there, they can sleep here with my new emergency blanket (that Memo from town gave me).
At 9pm they returned. I busted open the second Mac & Cheese and it was a feast! I set them up with the emergency blanket and my rain jacket - kind of worried. Forecast was -9C, I would be having problems myself with my +2C bag...
but... it was all good when we stepped outside.
They walked out with me to go see the sunrise
There was just one more thing to do.
Drinking coke on top of a volcano rim! Nothing says Mexico more than this. Although I wish I thought about the pressure, at 4500m over half the bottle went on my clothes.
The ride down was a blast although scary at times
I followed my garmin to avoid the highway, which eventually got me stuck behind a herd of sheep. The man kept trying to tell me that I can go around and continue but I was like ''No, me gusta.''
I decided to keep going, skipping few descent spots and soon I was in a narrow valley where camping would be nearly impossible. I asked a house if I can camp at their yard and they said yes. I was put in the greenhouse.
But that dog. Oh man. All night.
Woof...Rrrrrr...Woof.
if I make a move.
Woof...Rrrrr...Woof...
Woof...Rrr...Woof...Rrrr..
6am alarm, no snooze. I guess I have to go.
Roads were very narrow but traffic was amazing. Sometimes it shocks me to see people passing me on curves, if there is traffic in the opposing lane they would be in a lot of trouble.
I made a run for the toll highway entrance. The guy gets out of the booth and waves at me, I turn back and yell back ''Feliz Navidad''
feels good to be a gringo and for the next 45km I could not wipe that smile off my face. All downhill, great pavement, decent shoulder.
So it is Dec 31. I was aiming to camp at the saddle of the two big volcanoes (see few pics earlier) but didnt quite make it. But I found the best spot to chill just 100m from the road in a corn field. I even had visitors!
Evening was spent looking back and forth between the red sunset and waiting for Popocatepetl to erupt.
I decided to sleep instead of wait until midnight. But it wasn't my decision to make. 11:55 I wake up in a warzone. Fireworks and explosions all around. Happy new year!
Puppy in trouble! upside down in the ditch and his mom acts like she doesnt know him :(
I flip him back on his feet...
...and they lived happily ever after.
The woman before me bought 50 fortune cookies, I was happy with 1. Although I wish I knew what it said.
Climb day. Not ideal weather but I can't wait for the sun to shine.
It was cold. I stopped 3 times to have coffee at the stalls beside the road. At this one I glanced at their balance sheet for the day. For the two of them they had only made about 400 pesos ($23 USD). They would wave at people passing by to stop and eat. I too waved once or twice.
At Paso de Cortez I fill out a permit form with my frozen hands (none of it legible...) and I am off trying to make out the two volcanoes from between the clouds.
I keep riding into the white abyss, it gets colder and colder and there is no telling what the temp will be at night.
The clouds clear to catch the last bit of the fading sunset and the millions of stars shining above.
my gear hidden and my bike locked. Lets see how far I can get.
Not too far... 2 km in I cave in and return for my bike.
The popocatepetl volcano is closed for hiking due to activity.
While wondering about exactly how much trouble I can get in for trying to go up the volcano, a military helicopter circles around. Hmm... maybe next time.
All downhill on the other side... and you definitely dont need to go to the discovery channel for some action.
This guy was actually texting while horseback riding. I thought I'd seen it all :)
Pitstops nowdays. Its pretty dirty here, if you plan on visiting mexico you better hurry up before its covered in garbage and coca cola bottles.
Then I hit the 190 for the long haul to Oaxaca. No more dirt for a while as I hope to leave Mexico before Jan 20.
Camping was great, food was cheap (you can eat out all meals for about $10 a day) but the sunsets could use a little more work.
Not sure if these are turkeys or something but it was fascinating to listen to their call. One begins it and then they all chime in.
While listening to the turkeys, few cyclists caught my eye. I soon joined them, throwing my gear on the back of their truck and riding at the back of the pack so I can take better photos.
Yeah. Thats definitely why i was in the back. and not because i was feeble and weak but man those kids can ride. sweathers and jeans and single speed bikes.
Taco breakfast. I dont really like corn tortillas, good to know I wasnt the only one.
After eating enough to make me hesitant to continue riding, I hopped on the truck for the last 5km. One of the kids asked what the nutella was and I gave him some. Then two more scoops and then I realized that his mom who is riding on the leading truck will probably kill me if she found out.
They all turned off few km before Oaxaca. You dont need to wear all lycra to go on a 65km road ride!!!
I wanted to include Oaxaca and Chiapas in this post but I am not even half way done and this computer is dying.
TO BE CONTINUED!