August 2020
With the ferry still 10 days away I will have time to see all these little roads leading off from the Bella Coola valley and who knows, maybe even a hot shower at some point. The first on the list was Odeguard Falls and Purgatory Lookout.
Camping is always easy in Canada, pick a logging road and go until the first flat pullout.
The road, like many roads in the area had a “road closed” sign, indicating a washout further along but few locals told me that it was in okay condition. It was a rather gloomy day with few sunny breaks and rain from time to time. Occasionally the clouds broke to offer a view to the glaciers and snowcapped peaks above.
The bridge in question was there but it was just difficult to get to it.
There was active logging partway up the road but no logging trucks in sight, which is a good thing. Some of the tree stumps along the road were enormous!
There was the distant road of Odeguard Waterfalls and the closer and more loud river going down the valley. Kind of like camping near the highway although the noise was more consistent.
The steepness of the valley was difficult to capture, even with the wide gopro lenses.
after the road leveled out I could see my next stop: Purgatory Lookout.
My initial plan was to continue down the valley to the end of the road on the coast and if I did make it there I was ready to try and find a boat ride over but the road was way too overgrown. I could see down the valley where the road used to be but it has been too long since it had been driven. Even on foot, without a bike it would be a big bushwalk
Then I decided it was time to take few days off, waiting for the ferry - Bella Coola style. On the second day I almost saw the Purgatory Ridge and did some maintenance, on the third day it was clear and on the 4th day it rained cats and dogs all day.
I backtracked a bit to an old trail leading to a ridge. It continued on the map but that seemed like a mountaineering route. It was a bit bicycle unfriendly and eventually I hid the bike behind a tree, taking a note of where it was via GPS and few photos, then continued on foot.
The trail was great for walking and the views were amazing.
Further up you could start seeing the surrounding mountains, water falls from glacier to glacier and the weather was surprisingly nice
this was camping at the edge of the world and I somehow wished that I prepared for a longer hike but one night will have to do. I remember once asking someone why people don’t camp on mountain tops and was told that there could be electric storms and boy did I have an exciting night when the lightning started. At some point I wondered if I should pack up and go but ended up staying in my tent and surviving to tell the story.
The walk back was easier but quite wet and once I got on the bike I was happy to be riding again. Odeguard falls got some sun through the clouds and I splurged on the best campground in Hagensborg, complete with a hot shower and a power outlet to recharge the batteries (
The ride through the valley was nice while playing tag with the rain and deciding what I can do for the next 3 days before the 4am ferry departure. I made a note of where the ferry terminal was as I would be riding to it in the dark (it would be hard to miss though).
Going up Clayton falls started out nice but soon the rain took over. It was a tough call but I think I got enough nice coffee and treats sent from my friends in Cranbrook to make all the rain okay.
but somehow the rain and the clouds made the coastal mountains that much more interesting, showing only bits and pieces of the jagged peaks and glaciers in the distance and the turquoise blue waters of the fjords
It cleared out for a bit and then it was gone. Just rain for my last day. I was hoping to ride down to a big cedar tree and then backtrack before taking the ferry but it didn’t seem like a good idea.
It luckily stopped overnight and for the ferry boarding. The first one was a small ferry going from Bella Coola to Bella Bella, with a layover at Shearwater. There was a layover at Ocean Falls where we could see a big dam and we were all fashionably late to the point where the captain was waiting for everyone.
along the way I looked at the coast, possible landing spots and the waves. It’s been a dream of mine to paddle the inside passage but I wonder if it may be way to rainy to enjoy.
Whoever designed the ferry schedule made the connections as awkward as possible. 4am boarding, 7-11pm layover, then another stop and layover from 12:00 until 4am. I was able to have a quick nap in Shearwater but did not end up going for a ride on the island.
I set up my tent at Bella Bella and got some sleep before I lined up with the other poor souls waiting for the ferry at night. There was a group of cyclists that were planning to do the same route that I did and we chatted for a little bit before I was off. Then I finally found a nice spot to sleep on the big ferry and continue drying my gear and recharging electronics.
pretty much the roughest campsite of all of 2020!
It was actually just the day before masks would become mandatory on all ferries. Most people were still wearing them and there were social distancing markers everywhere. Approaching Prince Rupert was so odd and gloomy with big container ships and rail lines leading the way to the port
Apparently Prince Rupert set a record for the rainiest year - having two days without rain and it wasn’t on the day that I got here. I went about 50km down the highway before setting up for the night. Everything was wet but I had booked a place to stay in Terrace tomorrow - the first indoor stay for over 2 months.
Rode for a bit with some other bikepackers but they were a bit too quick for me, I had the air pressure up for the pavement but a fatbike is definitely much slower.
The stretch from Prince Rupert to Terrace was definitely a lot more industrial and a big change from the quiet logging roads and middle of nowhere trails that I have been doing all summer.
entering Terrace there was even a bike lane and a nice security guard who was counting people in and out agreed to watch my bike while I got groceries.