December 2019, Chile.

By far, the worst thing that can happen to a bicycle tourer is to have a complete bike breakdown. Perhaps a part that is not available in the country and likely the whole continent? In this case, a Borealis Gen 2 turnagain fatbike hub rear axle.

but what if it’s the best thing that can happen to you?

For as long as I remember looking at the topography and available roads or trails, Chilean Patagonia had a big gap, between available roads and where I wanted to go.

The truth is the bike is breaking down part by part and it wasn’t a matter of “if” but “when”. On top of the driver, axle and likely hub body, the BB and crankset, the Lauf (springs are too soft now - likely from riding overloaded in the Puna) and a drive train i have been on since I got the bike.

So instead of the easy way (which would be either replacing all the parts or bringing Deadhorse (the surly troll bike) back), I reached out to Joe (from BarYak) & Kokopelli Raft to see what the next options were.

and thank you to Dan, Jolene, Patricia, Matt and many others that made this happen!

echoes of the civil unrest in chile still reach patagonia but down here it just seems that the dogs did it…

My first idea, a long dream but after all, only a waypoint on my map, “packraft?” turned out to be possible but not quite yet. Coyhaique is a small town but in the world of packrafting and hiking it is a small world. I got to meet not only with the creator of “La Travesia De Los Volcanoes” but the couple behind The Greater Patagonia Trail and while I was ready to go for my planned route, an advice not to and from people with more experience than I is too important to pass by. So, this is taking the easy way south.

It was a miserable rainy morning in Coyhaique but I had managed to find an online reservation to the bus south to Cochrane and made my way down with a backpack I could barely carry. Wet dogs trying to stay dry and grass in cardboard boxes soaking in the rain were the only impressions of the walk to the bus terminal.

The bus ride was uneventful except for the part where we came down a mountain pass and I observed with curiosity who would be the first person to break tell the driver that it was crazy hot in the bus. I saw the house where my bike is still resting and at Puerto Rio Tranquiullo I remember a girl asking for the vegetarian option at a small restaurant. They replied by saying we can give you the hotdog (completo) without the meat. So avocado, bread and mayo/tomato. A more accurate answer would be: “veggie option: take the bus to the next town”

The non-veggie option in Cochrane was equally unimpressive. Freezer fries with some sausage and meat dubbed as Pichanga, $18CAD. It was my last meal for a while and somehow it was okay by chilean food standards. The first time I had it was much better!

I tried walking out of town in the eveninig but eventually asked a woman walking with her kids if there was taxi in town. This backpack was plain ridiculous in size and weight and amount of things being strapped to it in the most precarious ways. She was happy to call one for me and for a reasonable price I was taken to the docks of Lago Cochrane where I managed to strap everything down on the boat and I was ready to go.

but what mattered the most was that I was moving forward in the right direction. Some hiker from above the cliffs waved to me and stood by watching for a bit. I wonder what I must look from afar…

the water way up to lake Cochrane was just upstream but with a little bit of ridiculous paddling (seriously you need a motor) and some portages I was able to advance forward.

some of the narrower parts with strong current were just nasty to paddle up but with some effort possible.

by 9pm of the long Patagonian days I had found a reasonable wind cover (from west winds) and started unloading stuff from my backpack. I really have no idea what I am doing and it shows. I should learn over the next couple of days

With the last several days spent sleeping on various modes of transportation I snoozed my morning alarm until it went off and then was woken up by ducks.

I zoomed in on my camera all the way forward, thinking that this does not look good.

but how do I know if its not good? i havent been out there. I packed the boat and was ready to go

there was just enough and at times too much wind for the wind sail and for most of the day I only had to make sure the boat was angled right and that I did not turn sideways where the winds can flip me over.

By 2 pm I had found the Refugio Jan had told me about and put an approximate waypoint on the map. I had it noted down with a grain of salt but in reality it was a great and clean wooden house that would make a perfect stop for the day as the wind and the water sang its song along the lake

I got to dry everything from the paddle and even play around with some new camera gear

Not setting an alarm for the next day I woke up at 11am and looked down where I wanted to go. I’ll just spend christmast here then. I was really behind on sleep and the lake did not look great at all.

Next day I was out and ready to roll at first light, 5:30am and it looked gnarly but in the end it was an easy (by easy I mean easy to stay upright and afloat) paddle to the point and then I took out the windsail for a good chunk for the way toward Argentina before realizing that I was not going the right way and paddling back to shore just in time to stay in Chile.I landed at the homestead of Lorenzo and his wife who has been here all his life but by the end of the year he was hoping to sell his ranch and retire to Cochrane. They invited me to a filling fried bread and jam and lamb meat. I asked for where the trail was but Lorenzo said that my backpack was too heavy and we will go by horse to the pass.

soon enough the dogs were let loose and the horses were saddled up.

and to tell you the truth, horses are amazing animals of infinite strength. Lorenzo rode back to me to give me the little thing that I am supposed to hit the horse in the bum so he can move faster but I was new at it and the horse knew and eventually Lorenzo grabbed the rope and we followed along. He was carrying my backpack that was “too heavy” and me. Me just closing my eyes and letting the spiky calafate and other plants scratch my legs into oblivion, knowing how much energy is being saved. Next time on a horse - put gaitors or at the very least not shorts.

The dogs almost caught some type of a duck, I asked Lorenzo if they catch them, he said yes!

we said our goodbyes and I was off, it should be fairly flight. The directions were: two left’s on the trail and then stay along the “filo” (ridge) and that surprisingly made a lot of sense and I was always on the right trail

Some birds and some rain later an alarm was sounded and before I knew it all the cows from the vallley had surrounded me.

“Moo” Moo, Mooooooo

I did not know what they wanted but I kept moving until some dogs from a house came to my rescue and scared the cows away.

I know I am in an unique position that I can give some pets and love to the dogs but cannot let them follow me. Locals never pet their dogs because then they won’t want to work and will want pets instead. None followed but were extremely happy to receive some affection from the wandering gringo with the backpack that can tip over any moment

There was nobody at home but there was a lake and light. So I inflated the boat and I carried on. There was a distinct feeling of being able to connect land and water in one fluid motion of advancing forward.

The morning was very good but by the time I was done taking some photos it got really windy and I went on toward shore to walk the rest of Lake Brown. Good timing as it began pouring just right after I packed up, repacking in the rain will not be pleasant. There was a brand new road being built so that was some easy walking once I found it

It was rainy and windy and cold. I passed by the Rio Tranquillo (calm river) where I was supposed to go in but ultimately decided that this was just not good river rafting weather and got some water instead and went off to find a good camp spot

by the evening I could see some nice mountains and the morning was amazing

The weather was much better for water sports and soon I was in the river going down some rapids.

Someone might tell you how bad trees can be but nothing will teach you better than actually hitting one. I saw it and tried going to the side but eventually got sucked in. Boat stuck and well I went under. The river was small and everything ok except for losing the gopro headstrap. My semi-dry top kept me well… semi-dry.

I forgot to look at the raft manual and had been unsuccessful at figuring out how to mount the spray skirt - meaning I get cold splashes of water every now and then, another lesson learned - READ THE MANUALS!

The river went on nicer and calmer than before and there was only a short portage along some rapids.

Luckily there was a stretch of sun just as I was taking out which made the whole ordeal much more pleasant and I had good weather while I figure out what goes where again.

The Calm Bridge over Calm River

I continue slowly toward the Ruta de los Pioneros with my still heavy backpack even after 6 days passing picturesque houses and wondering if mosquitoes would be bad with all these wetlands infront

while following a condor and its shadow on the hillside a bus pulled over and offered me a ride. It would have been an extra 2 hour walk to the end of the road. At the glacier viewpoint I spent some time repacking, filming but mainly just sitting there and watching. Several groups of visitors came and went but I just felt that one needs to spend more time in places like these. I also made a guest appearance in some Chilean photos and selfies and the point came where I would need to move on or set up camp here.

and when one road ends, another one begins

I went up and down trying for a good campsite only to find some spiky patagonian plants, eventually settled for a rather exposed spot but no spiky stuff to mess with my sleeping mat

and the morning held blue skies and perhaps the best weather I will see for the next few months in Patagonia

and while my gear is far from being light and add the boat and the food and the camera gear, one thing was for sure. I will need to get stronger if I am to continue this…

but more on that on the next post