The bike finally got some much, much needed repairs. Who would have figured that mud is a decent substitute for ball bearings! and although stopping with my feet worked well on pavement and dirt roads it just wouldnt cut it on trails or worse. I managed to trade my old brakes and few extra adapters for a new BB, pedals and a tshirt! I am sure somebody would have perfect use for the Shimano SLX'es but they are just not strong enough for bikepacking down steep roads and trails. Really hoping the Magura MT7's would do better because if not, i think the next step is adapting a motorcycle brake...

After a nice early soup lunch at the little town of Jesus I bought a little bit of cooked rice for dinner and was off. I wont get to use the new brakes much as I will be climbing for the rest of the day. There were few other changes, my MSR Dragonfly was in Bolivia and now I will run with a Jetboil considering that the fuel is available in many places on the way: Huaraz, Cusco and other larger towns. My larger backpack is as well replaces by a little one, which too can be worn with heavy stuff in when trail is tough and I need to lift the bike.

Despite being well over 2500m the sun was shining hard, the locals were plowing distant fields and it ,ay just seem as if they were making smoke fire rituals to bring in the rain.

Animals, just like people threw curious looks as I made my way up.

Eventually the road split and I took a right toward a lake. A man who traded hats with me told me that this way also works so I continued on the old road. As if riding into a magic and mystical land engulfed by thick fog.

I chose a nice spot among the pine trees and set up my tent. Shortly after people returning from the fields went by the road. None returned my wave or smile or "hello". This was odd. They were just waiting and I wasnt sure if I should approach. A teen did a circle around my tent as if on a scouting mission while more people gathered. About 15 of them.
It was when the boss rode in on a white donkey that they called me. I went over to them, keeping in mind that just several kilometers up was where in 2014 two cyclists were surrounded and held under mob arrest for 20 hours. The boss spoke and shortly the word "turista" went around arousing curious looks, smiles and a little laughter. "Thats right, i am here for cold tourism." Upon waving goodbye I found that one of their dogs had helped himself to all of my rice, cookies and was munching on some bread. Perhaps this was all a distraction to feed the dog!

It poured all night like it did when I was in Cajamarca, raising some questions about my idea to follow the ridge further up instead of the road. In the morning the men were on the way to work, some waved back others upon hearing my "good morning" began running up the road. A friendly bunch passed by. They told me they walk 4-5 hours every day. To my suggestion to get a donkey they said its too cold on a donkey, when you walk, you warm up.

Or you can be like me and just wait for the sun to come out! Just for a moment it felt like on another world with the fog and the rays shining through.

A well graded old road went up a ridge and thanks to the 4G from the nearby towers I concluded that it will somehow connect to where I want to go.

The road was unbelievably good and rideable all the way! What a find, it snuck its way around two giant rocky ridges and finally went onto the track I had initially noted on google satellite view. Birds were flying about and I slowly made my way up to 4000m or so.

up high from the ridge you can see for miles and I often took out the map, really wondering where I would be going. A road went off to the right climbing up even more but I was going the other way toward these big rocky mountains... I could even see the faint road in the distance.

The only other person on the road today was the horse militia doing his daily rounds.

Down below in the valley the donkeys roamed free and I took my last chance to get stream water.

Thick fog rolled in, the kind that is almost a drizzle and would soak you right up if without rain gear. At a switchback I pulled up the map and although I could not see anything, this promised great views. No other ranges stood to the west where the sun will set and there was this giant piece of rock just 1km in a straight line.

Alas, it was not meant to be, I made dinner in the tent as the rain pelted down, two cows were out and about and woke me up few times.

I checked at 12am and at 3 it finally cleared up. I must have lost track of time because it was already 4 and I was freezing cold. I went back in the tent and snoozed the alarm well past 6:30.

I got a brief clear sky and almost sunshine but the fog rolled in again and I zoomed down the road hoping for sunshine.

Along with the brakes, I also got a Jetboil stove and after months of using the MSR dragonfly (which also had some serious problem affecting performance) I could not believe that water can boil in just minutes!! It normally takes me 20-30minutes to get 1.5L boiling.

Road continued to be unbelievable good, climbing slightly and descending nicely. This was a proper road now with some car tracks.

Eventually it all got under few inches of sticky mud and I walked in the pasture next to the road if I could.

It felt really awesome to be linking up these tracks with just google satellite view. There were almost no houses and asking for directions wpuld require hiking off the road/trail, plus locals dont always know the right way and would rather send you to the nearest big road and big town.

a kid yelling at a girl on top of a hill

The only way to stay on the ridge was to go on horse trails. Interestingly this one was wide all the way up. At times steep and rough but never muddy or a horse trench.

After a short heavenly ride along the ridge I rolled into the mist. The road was steep and rough but with the new brakes it felt like cake. I also must have broken them in down this descend because power went really up, almost too strong (if thats something you can complain about!). Heat was okay, the rotors getting quite hot but calipers were always good.

Wet rainy mist and strong winds, zero visibility. I often hunched over to look at the tiny brown line on the map as this was the only guide I had.

At times it got quite bad. Narrow trenches and/or really steep switchbacks but there were never more than 10-15 minutes and what followed was always rideable tracks, some steep, some sketchy but rideable!!!

It felt wonderful to be here and very likely the first cyclist to ride these hills and ridges. Especially when the fog cleared and I could see where I was.

I really wonder what the men with the cow plows on the fields thought when they saw me ride forth for a photo, ride back, ride again forward for a video and walk back and then forth to the bike again.

Out of a house a man started running, followed by 3 kids. They all made it up to me although out of breath. He suggested I go to sleep at the school further up because its easy to get lost in the fog. I tried to explain to him where I was going and to ask for directions but I did not know the names of any towns I was headed toward.

Steep climb followed by ridgeside trail led to what appeared to be a road!

There was even a faint car track there but that went off to the wrong side of the mountain. My turn was wide although quite rough at times and when the fog rolled in at 5pm it was a little gloomy looking for a place to camp when you cant see more tha 5 meters ahead.

So I just set up on the road. Its not like somebody will come driving through. But I was hoping a horse or a walker would drop by because that would be a funny encounter!

All of a sudden fog was out and I was buzzing around looking at the bigger picture... somehow wondering if I would appreciate this as much if there was no fog or rain.

The morning was on and off with the fog and although it was rough and unused, I was on a road!

Somebody came running out of a house toward me, they wanted to try the bike.

a litle overexposed photo of the girls sitting next to a pile of garbage

At a house I asked for water and they invited me for breakfast. Turned out they had a little store too (mostly pasta and cookies) and a very sad dog. I asked them what they do with the garbage. They put it in a hole, well I think this would be ok, its not like its any different from a ¨proper garbage disposal¨

The way was up over another pass across the valley. Road was driveable for a bit but then it turned into a rough moto track.

Despite the middle of nowhere ridges, people were still living in these huts, doing laundry, knitting and running sheep up and down the hills.

one of these good looking, puffy, peruvian sheepdog mutts

The road down was rough but rideable, just not too fast.

funny how your definition of a road changes after some time...

here i am trying to keep up with a dirtbike driving down and also the only vehicle i have seen the last 3 days

Another little pass and I was looking at the biggest downpour that I have ever seen.

I made it just in time to a schoolhouse and hid under the roof. I considered setting up here for the night but even the dry spot on the stairwell got wet and flooded.

The town of Sanagoran came just out of nowhere, one moment I was in a nice valley and the next big white buildings. The government offices shone through the gloomy skies and greyy valley walls. As some sort of a program, every house has gotten a brand new, painted concrete outhouse with a sink and a roof and a small plaque perhaps indicating the ruling party. So when you have to go to the loo, you automatically think of the government!

Although I often mention the Militia in a lightheaded, fun kind of way I am sure they are not just for show. The ones I have met always identified themselves as ¨Rondas¨ with pride and are well respected within the comunities.

I tried to hold onto the black panther for the climb up but that thing shook back and forth and it caught my handlebar, I almost fell off infront of some kids, that would definitely have made their day.

And if you are thinking there are no spiders at 3000m, think again!

The climb went up through the on and off rain and I just got a hold of a moto-truck for the last 100m or so of climb to make it to Huamachuco before dark. A man from a mototaxi waved me over and gave me crackers, he then gave another pack of crackers from his other pocket to a man walking by.

the route, more or less. its the blue line and also a little insight about how to guide yourself with google satellite and waypoints!