Trying to think of all the things that led to this, the bike shop in Pucon Chile, who put the new BB back together with a missing spacer, me being stubborn and not waiting a Sunday to go to Bariloche to fix it and the repair in Esquel which really made things rideable until now. I had two contacts in Coyhaique and I packed my bags and started looking for a ride back. Wind blowing full on from the west and as there were barely any pickups, I remembered that squared off bolt the welder made.
in retrospect, very happy that I wasnt able to find a ride!
The broken bottom of the thread came out by just tapping it with my multitool (there was a neat groove that the screwdriver end could bite into). I Put it all back in and tied it as hard as I could, still getting a bit of an angle due to the bent bolt but nontheless, it looked rideable. I asked some road workers if they had a wrench and tied it as much as I can. I asked them if their signs get blown over by the wind, they said no but I saw 3 blown over “caution workers” signs further up.
below is a perfect example of what happens when you let scientists run loose and do their experiments!
after the repair and a bit of a walk to retrieve the drone in the morning (underestimated the wind) I took a turnoff to a trail leading to Cerro Castillo and found perfect camp site in a quiet valley.
Along the highway, CONAF had taken on the responsibility to look after the local deer, the Huemul and protect them from distracted drivers and the like. But one may wonder how many people have crashed trying to make out the fine print on the roadsigns along the way
and what better way to fight pollution than photoshopping garbage and a wine bottle (it’s Chile!) next to a Huemul!
CONAF may have many strengths but using photoshop is not one of them
finally after a nice and easy climb to a pass, I could see Cerro Castillo. I chilled for a while here watching cars come and go, people out and taking photos and wondering how some of them never actually looked at the mountain but instead got the perfect selfie or shot and left. I hope I never become like that.
in the Cerro Castillo village I got a bit more food, happy to find trail mixes and all that good stuff that simply was not available in Argentina although I have to turn a blind eye on the Chilean prices. I found a wrench for my bolt so I can tighten/remove it if needed.
and in a moment of recklessness decided to take another chance with Chilean food, scouting to see which restaurant has the most people and bingo. I was able to charge up, wifi-up and the only problem is that the $12 meal was a kid portion.
following the town I continued onto the brand new superhighway, often looking at the side and wondering how the old road cut its way through the unfriendly topography leading to the west. Great sun, little wind (relatively!) and one of the best days for quite a while.
Riding up the flat mouth of a big valley with the wind, I just remembered a day in Alaska where in similar wind I just thought it wasn’t worth biking and set up camp for the day under the pipeline. But now, this was good wind to be riding, except for some of the exposed turns.
Then there was the construction, really nice people and I was happy to be allowed to ride past every stop sign
soon the Carretera Austral lost its super highway status and the impressive cuts through the rock gave way to a more intimate road, even if it was shared with some big trucks.
a rather sparsely forested area was perfect for camping, i went a bit off the road for a quiet spot
it rained cats and dogs all night, this tent fly for some reason soaks up all the moisture like a giant sponge, definitely getting packed outside of the dry bag today
after a morning dose of sunshine I got to the snowy part of the day, a typical chilean wet-snow experience although the camera did not come out too often for obvious reasons
followed by some rain
there was a sunny spell which was amazing and followed by a bit more rain
and as I neared the Lago Carrera, the rear hub stopped biting and I pulled over to the nearest house wondering if i can find pliers or something so I can see what is wrong.
there was nobody but when I took off the rear axle it all became clear and i let out a big laugh. that’s the problem!
best guess was that once the second hinge broke, the tooth got loose and messed up the whole driver.
The owners of the house returned and were surprised to find a gringo in their yard, fed me empanadas and tea and I asked if i can leave my bike here for a while as getting a borealis driver and axle for this hub is only happening in USA (or Canada), not to mention the pending repair of the bottom bracket/crankset and how the SRAM GX11 has survived longer than the hub truly boggles my mind.
rest well Fathorse, you have earned it!
took a photo so i remember where my bike is and from now on I can hoof it for a bit.
a truly liberating feeling leaving mechanical worries behind and walking into the silence, sticking my thumb out to any passing vehicle.
i had heard of some gringo owning a big clothing company, buying up land in the area and then turning it into a national park. Maybe that’s where I’ll head.